Residential Attic Fires
DEPARTMENTS
Volunteers Corner
As more and more residential homes spring up across the country, the number of attic fires also increases. In older homes, the insulation on wiring deteriorates, more and more combustible materials are stored in the attic, and woodburning stoves tax the flues. In newer homes, utilities are placed in the attic, unsafe clearances are built around heating and fireplace vents, and poor construction techniques are used. Construction with lightweight trusses will lead to an early collapse under fire conditions. All in all, the firefighter must be aware of the prevalence of attic fires and know how to handle them.
Residential attics usually have peaked roofs on dwellings and apartment buildings. Many row homes, town houses, condominiums, and some apartments have flat roofs with various sizes of cockloft. Both types of roof are often constructed without fire stops, allowing the fire to quickly spread horizontally and involve a maximum area.
In order to limit the damage from one of these fast-spreading fires, you must apply two basic firefighting principles: adequate ventilation of the attic space coupled with a vigorous, heavy interior attack. Both of these must be initiated immediately and in a coordinated manner by first-arriving crews.
Although most attic areas today have some type of built-in ventilation, it is not sufficient to remove the heat and gases from a well fueled fire. Much of the venting is at the lower portions of the attic space, rather than being located at the top where the heat accumulates, and feeds additional oxygen to the inferno.
Some buildings may be equipped with topside ventilators or gable vents. Neither of these systems approximate the square footage of a 4 X 4-foot well-placed hole.
If there has been considerable preburn, the roof may burn through. This will provide good ventilation as long as an engine company does not put a capping fog stream into the hole. The stream from that hose line and the steam it produces will push the heat and smoke throughout the interior exposure below and could spread the fire to the occupied portion of the structure.
Generally, the recommended practice is to open the roof at the highest point directly over the seat of the fire w’hen safely possible. Larger attic areas on multiple dwelling buildings may require an opening up to 8 X 8 feet.
In order to protect the interior exposures, the attack on the attic must be made from below the fire. In most structures this will require pulling the ceiling. So, the attack crew should use pike poles, rakes, or Sheetrock hooks. Short or D-handled devices work best in dwellings or apartments with low ceilings. Most departments prefer to use a scuttle opening or attic access when one is available. This will necessitate using an attic or folding ladder to reach the fire area.
The attack should be made with a hose line of sufficient size for the attic area. Because the 1 3/4-inch line can be easily maneuvered and has a larger flow capacity, it is ideal for the majority of these fires. If you are dealing with extremely large attic spaces, a 2 */2-inch line may be necessary.
In some cases, it may be possible to make a horizontal attack through a dormer or the end of the gable. This requires ventilation on the other end of the attic and, of course, a line below the fire to check for fire extending downward. The position below could be precarious if excessive water was placed in the attic and the ceiling begins to drop. In almost all cases, an attack through a ventilation opening should never be ordered!
Overhauling the attic fire can be difficult. Many attics are small, and the cockloft type may require extensive ceiling pulling to check all areas. There may be much damaged material that will have to be removed and only a few small openings to use.
Excessive use of water for washdown may cause water damage in the area below or bring about a collapse. Smouldering materials may burst into flames when brought into a more oxygen-rich atmosphere below the attic.
Do not overlook salvage at attic fires. Cover the furniture in rooms below the fire. If possible, “bag” the area before pulling the ceiling. After extinguishment, any holes in the roof will have to be closed or covered.
The proper use of water is an important method of performing salvage during an attic fire. Once the fire is darkened down, close the nozzle and then use it intermittently for final extinguishment of spot fires. Judicious nozzle usage will minimize water damage and lessen overall cleanup and water removal.
There are several things you must keep in mind when fighting an attic fire:
- Sometimes people will use the attic as a bedroom, and rescue will be necessary. This can be difficult, and makes coordinated attack and ventilation operations even more imperative.
- There is always the possibility of collapse due to the utilities, such as water heaters and furnaces, and other materials that are often stored in attics. Officers must be aware and watch out for this.
- Those working in the attic must be careful not to miss a rafter and fall through. Serious injury can result. There also can be electric lines and gas pipes in the attic, which compound the injury and fire problems.
Attic fires can be very serious. They require the proper application of several basic techniques in an orderly fashion by a well-trained crew working together as a team. Before your next attic fire, make sure to review your department’s procedures, the types of local construction, and the hazards that you may encounter.
