ON FIRE ❘ by MICHAEL N. CIAMPO
Fire escapes were designed to help people remove themselves from a structure when trapped by smoke or fire. Firefighters commonly use these devices for another means of entry into an apartment or room of a structure to search for life. Unfortunately, fire escapes are exposed to the elements every day, causing deterioration of their structural components. Thus, safety should be a paramount concern while operating on fire escapes.
The Drop Ladder
The drop ladder on a fire escape is a very difficult ladder to climb because it’s narrow and vertical, going from the ground to the first landing, which is usually the second floor. Firefighters should always stand beneath the first platform when dropping it; if it’s out of its tracks and it falls outward, they’ll be protected. Prior to dropping it, ensure it’s in its tracks, and smack it a few times with a hook to release the rust and assist in its removal. Carry a flashlight so at night you can spot this easier. Don’t look up when striking it; pieces of rust will become airborne particles.
As you lift up on the ladder to release it from its holding bracket, be prepared: It’s heavy and will come flying down quickly. As you quickly pull your hook back, ensure the butt end of it doesn’t hit the building or the ground, which can cause the hook to get in the way of the descending ladder and may injure an unsuspecting firefighter.
If you’re pulling down the stairs of a counterbalanced fire escape, don’t stand beneath the platform, weights, or stairs. If the cable, fasteners, or pivoting joint were to fail, the whole stairway could collapse and pin a firefighter.
If the fire escape is overcrowded, don’t be so focused on climbing the drop ladder to remove the people. Size up the opposite end of it and place a ladder to this landing to assist in occupant removal. Depending on the height of the landing, a firefighter will have to choose the proper length ladder. There will be times when a straight ladder will work fine and others where an extension ladder is needed. Don’t focus on using one particular ladder, especially the 20-foot roof ladder, which is often difficult to maneuver around vehicles and people on the sidewalk.
A 24-foot extension ladder (which is 14 feet in the closed position and offers a variety of heights) may be a much better option for these operations. Place the tip of the ladder onto the building a few rungs above the level of the fire escape railing for a better climbing angle and handhold when transitioning onto or off of the ladder.
Unfortunately, there will be times when you can’t place a ladder on the opposite end because of a building’s ornamental features, air-conditioning units, canopies, and awnings. When faced with an obstruction, you may have to consider an alternate plan.
Opening the hooks of a roof ladder and biting it on the front railing of the fire escape may be another means of laddering the fire escape. Once it’s in position, tug downward on it to ensure the railing holds the tip of the ladder and it’s secured in place. Railings have been known to fail from deterioration and lack of maintenance. Placing the tip of an unsecured ladder onto a fire escape railing is asking for trouble. If an escaping civilian knocks into it or a firefighter quickly attempts to get off of it, the aluminum ladder can easily slide along the top of the metal railing. The ladder could quickly drop to the ground or the person on the ladder could fall.
If upper floors also need relief from overcrowding, you can ladder the next landing with a portable ladder on the drop ladder side or rely on a tower or aerial ladder to remove these victims. It’s also important to note that victims exposed to smoke or venting fire will need to be removed quickly, and sometimes raising a portable ladder is quicker than setting up an apparatus.
As you climb a drop ladder or the stairs between each level, don’t run or bounce on them. Try to place your boot to the outsides of the treads; this is where they are supported and puts less stress on the bolts holding them in place.
Also, ensure you face the stairs when going up or down the fire escape. If a tread fails, you’ll fall forward and can catch yourself while holding the railings. A practical tip is to place your hook on an upper rung or the next landing above or below so you can hold onto both railings as you ascend or descend the fire escape.
As you move between the floors, you may have to do a reduced profile maneuver with your self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) when you’re moving against the building’s wall. The space can be narrow, and sliding your mask to one side and going through sideways may be the best possible action.
The Gooseneck Ladder
Another difficult vertical ladder to climb on the fire escape is from the top-floor landing to the roof; this is known as the gooseneck ladder because of its shape. The ladder is tied into the roof and building’s walls with anchor bolts.
Prior to climbing up or down it, give it a good shake, hit it with a tool, and pull on it. Ensure the anchors are still holding it in place and it’s safe to climb.
Some firefighters think you should climb the back side of the ladder and then transition around it when you get near the top. Often, that’s unachievable because there is limited space behind the ladder and wearing an SCBA won’t allow this maneuver. Plus, performing a “ballerina” move isn’t something you should be doing on a vertical ladder on an upper floor!
MICHAEL N. CIAMPO is a 36-year veteran of the fire service and a lieutenant in the Fire Department of New York. Previously, he served with the District of Columbia Fire Department. He has a bachelor’s degree in fire science from John Jay College of Criminal Justice in New York City. He is the lead instructor for the FDIC International Truck Essentials H.O.T. program. He wrote the Ladders and Ventilation chapters for Fire Engineering’s Handbook for Firefighter I and II (Fire Engineering, 2009) and the Bread and Butter Portable Ladders DVD and is featured in “Training Minutes” truck company videos.
