BY HOWARD BLYTHE AND FRANK RICCI
Fire departments across the country respond daily to emergencies and fires in basement areas. As we know, basement fires are among the toughest, most dangerous fires to extinguish. Knowing that the fastest way to remove the danger in a fire building is to get water on the fire and that the safest attack on any fire is with a clear and open means of egress and escape, proficiency at opening basement areas is crucial.
- Basement Fire Strategy and Tactics
- Throw Back to Basics: Basement Fires
- Mayday Monday: Rescue Options for Basement Fires
- Firefighting Fridays: Basement Fires
Fire attack from the exterior basement hatchway door has many benefits: The other engine company can stretch a line on the first floor to protect the top of the interior basement stairs and control the door to the basement; this places the line between the victims and a likely path of fire travel.
However, the attack team can descend the exterior basement stairs more quickly (most basement hatchway stairs have only six steps, compared with interior stairs, which typically have 12); the hatchway stairs go straight down, reducing the potential for hose kinks; and since the stairs are usually concrete, there is a limited chance of collapse.
Interior stairs are usually wooden and, in older structures, have a landing and turn toward the bottom.
Basement hatchway or Bilco doors, common in urban and suburban areas throughout the United States, provide an exterior entrance to cellars and basements and are found on single-family dwellings, apartment buildings, and in some businesses. Regardless of the manufacturer, these hatchway doors are constructed and lock similarly (photo 1).
 Photo 1 Photos 1, 3, 4, 7, 11, and 14 by Frank Ricci |
HATCHWAY DOOR SIMULATOR
Today’s training officers face challenges to their budgets and their creativity. The fire service’s need for quality training is at an all-time high, adding to the pressure to find affordable, solid real-world training. We created the basement hatchway door simulator as an affordable, reusable drill prop to help members master the techniques and refine the use of tools needed for efficient forcible entry into a basement in an emergency. The skills learned on the simulator increase proficiency with other cutting operations.
Basement hatchway doors are the most common exterior cellar doors used today. The basement hatchway door simulator (photo 2) features the three most common methods of locking such a door and allows your department to practice the techniques needed to gain entry in emergencies, making this very common cellar door a familiar obstacle that can be easily overcome. At Station 1 (photo 2, arrow 1), students practice cutting through the door to cut the standard locking bar usually found on the inside of the door. A piece of sheet metal that slides between two guides simulates the cutting area; after a firefighter practices this evolution, the sheet metal is moved to the left to close the resulting gap. At Station 2 (photo 2, arrow 2), members practice cutting the chain links or the padlock that might be found securing the exterior of the door. At Station 3 (photo 2, arrow 3), members practice the skills needed to shear off bolt heads that could be securing locking mechanisms on the inside of the door.
 Photo 2 Photos 2, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, and 13 by William Seward. |
ACCESSING THE BASEMENT
When assigned to access the basement of a building from an exterior entrance, the first step, as in all forcible entry operations, is proper size-up. Look for the following: How is the door locked? There may be a hasp or padlock on the exterior of the door (photo 3), or maybe only the heads of the bolts are visible, which often indicates the presence of a hasp and padlock on the inside of the door. In some cases, you may not be able to open the door even though there are no signs of locks. If this is the case, chances are the built-in locking bar is engaged (photo 4). Now that you can identify how the standard basement hatchway door may be secured, you are ready to take the appropriate action to forcibly open the door in a timely fashion with minimal effort.
 Photo 3 |
 Photo 4 |
The traditional method for forcing a basement hatchway door with the locking bar engaged is similar to that of forcing open a car hood. Although the metal all around the lock bends, the lock itself continues to hold as firefighters become fatigued and frustrated. Usually, this is the only lock engaged. It takes more practice than the other training stations to quickly locate the locking bar and make an accurate cut.
Once you have determined that the locking bar is engaged (remember, try before you pry), you need to determine which of the two doors is the overlapping door. There are three ways to do this. Most times, it is the door that has the handle on it. If both doors have handles, one of the two doors is larger than the other-that is the door you want to cut. If you can’t tell by one of those two methods, look at the overlapping rib in the center of the door to see to which side it is attached. This may be difficult to do in a smoke condition; the best place to see is at the bottom of the door. On the overlapping door, place a standard length halligan bar or other forcible entry tool (approximately 30 inches) even with the bottom of the door; the locking bar will be within six inches of the top of the halligan bar.
Using a circular saw with a metal cutting blade, start the cut on the overlapping door approximately six inches above the top of the halligan, as close to the rib as possible. Remember, while using the saw, to stand in a boxer stance with your feet between 18 and 24 inches apart for maximum stability. Begin your cut with the saw at low revolutions per minute (rpm). As the blade sinks in, throttle up to high rpm. Make a one-foot kerf cut straight down. This will cut the locking bar and free the two doors from each other, allowing them to open. Station 1 of the basement hatchway door simulator allows the user to practice all phases of this evolution. The member first identifies the overlapping door and then uses the halligan to find the locking bar (photo 5). Once the proper location for the cut has been identified, the member can use the saw to make the one-foot cut and disable the lock (photo 6). When the member is done cutting, the rebar is pushed in to reengage the lock, the sheet metal is slid into place to close the gap, and the evolution is ready to be performed again.
 Photo 5 |
 Photo 6 |
The second door locking method uses a hasp on the outside or a chain affixed to the door with a common padlock attached to secure the doors to each other (photo 7). In this case, determine the weakest part of the locking system. Example: If you find a very substantial lock on the outside but the hasp is held on by undersized sheet metal screws, the best way to take the door may be to use the adz end of the halligan to tear the screws out of the door, freeing the hasp.
 Photo 7 |
If the entire locking system seems to be fairly substantial, the best way to get through the door is to cut the lock or the chain. This operation is very straightforward: One firefighter holds the lock or the chain while the second firefighter uses a circular saw with a metal cutting blade and makes the desired cut.
The firefighter holding the chain or lock should employ one of the following techniques: Hold the chain or lock with the pike end of the halligan through one of the links, or use a pair of locking pliers with a chain attached to the handle to hold the object as straight as possible (photo 8). Both methods keep the holder’s hands safely away from the blade as the cut is made. The firefighter making the cut should use the same techniques learned in Station 1: Stand in the boxer stance, start the saw at slow rpm, and speed up after the blade starts to sink in (photo 9).
 Photo 8 |
 Photo 9 |
When cutting a chain link or a lock shackle, cut both sides of the link or shackle at the same time. The mechanics and teamwork needed to execute this operation can be practiced at Station 2 of the door simulator. Two firefighters can use the tools and practice the techniques to cut a padlock free of a hasp or a chain link. Pay specific attention to the effectiveness of the teamwork and communication between the two firefighters-safety is paramount when a firefighter is working so close to the saw blade. Once the cut is complete, move the chain out a couple of links, and Station 2 is ready to cut again.
The last locking system involves a hasp or some type of locking device that is bolted on the inside of the door or that has a visible keyway (photo 10). It is just like the second method we discussed, except it is on the inside. This is given away by the heads of bolts on both sides of the overlapping rib. With no access to the locking mechanism itself, all we can attack are the fasteners. The exception is that if the keyway is visible, you can make a kerf cut close to the rib of the door next to the keyway (photo 11).
 Photo 10 |
 Photo 11 |
Placing the adz end of the halligan next to the bolt head, use a maul or an ax to hit the halligan and shear off the bolt heads; then the bolts can fall through. The hasp will then be free from the door and the doors can open. The two members performing this operation need to coordinate with each other to get through the bolt and free the door. These are the same tools and coordination needed to force standard doors in a fire situation, so this is a good team-building exercise that goes beyond this evolution.
This operation sounds easier than it is-the bolts traditionally do not shear off easily or level; it takes a little practice to push the bolt down through the hole and free the hasp. At Station 3 of the basement hatchway door simulator, a series of bolts can be installed so members can practice the skills and the teamwork needed to shear off the heads (photo 12) and push the bolts out the bottom (photo 13). If you replace the sheared-off bolts with new ones, the downtime will be minimal.
 Photo 12 |
 Photo 13 |
These operations are the finessed ways of forcing open a basement hatchway door. If these methods are used and the door will not open or if it is locked in such a way that you cannot force it open, you can, as a last option, pry the entire door frame away from the house and foundation. Starting on one side away from the house, drive a halligan between the concrete and the metal frame, and begin to pry the frame from the concrete base, working your way toward the house. The hatchway door is one piece; most times, it is bolted and caulked to the concrete, so you will have to tear the metal off the bolts as you go. Once you free one side, separate the hatchway door from the house, and twist or pull it over to the other side. This is more time-consuming and much harder to do; for that reason, it is a last resort.
SIMULATOR CONSTRUCTION
Your department can build the basement hatchway door simulator for a minimal cost and a small time commitment. Check with local carpenters to see if they have an old door or one they recently replaced. Another option is to go to a local building supply store to see if it has an old door or if the store would donate one to your fire department.
Using a standard basement hatchway door and frame, remove the locking bar and cut the sides off the frame so that all you are left with are the doors and the frame where the hinges attach. To create Station 1, on the overlapping door, just to the side of the overlapping rib, cut an opening one foot long and three inches wide, centered over where the locking bar would be seen the center of the hole. Put a piece of rebar through the existing locking bar holders to simulate the locking bar.
At this point, you will need someone with welding experience or the services of a local metal shop or body shop. Weld two pieces of flat metal stock horizontally to the side of the vertical opening, exposing the locking bar. The sheet metal used to cover the locking bar opening will slide between these two metal guides. Cut a piece of sheet metal to fit between the guides, and slide into place.
For Station 2, drill a hole on the top corner of the door and fasten an eyebolt for the chain and lock-cutting station. Using a standard screw link or carabiner, attach chain to the eyebolt.
Drill a series of holes along the bottom left for Station 3. This will allow several participants to work on this station without having to replace the bolts after each team completes the station. You might want the welder to reinforce the metal around the bolt holes at the Station 3, too. Fasten a series of pan head bolts and nuts to the holes along the bottom. Your basement hatchway door simulator is now ready for use.
BASEMENT FIRE TRAINING
When training on basement fires, stress the following. While one line is stretched to the exterior cellar access to attack the fire, a second line should always be advanced to protect the interior stairs and the upper floors from vertical fire spread. Experience has shown that all pipe chases in bathrooms, kitchens, and attics need to be opened up. Assume nothing about stairs, floor, contents, construction, and so forth. Checking for the presence of stairs and ascertaining their condition are vital.
Hatchway doors that lead to the basement of a business may have a conveyor or chute for stock (photo 14). Probe to check for the presence of stairs. Finding a chute would dictate that the exterior door should be used for ventilation and fire attack should commence from the interior stairs.
 Photo 14 |
Note that as your company descends from the first floor down the interior stairs, the second line must hold the top of the interior stairs. Always go down stairs on your hands and knees, feet first, using your feet and legs to check the stairs below you. Keep your weight on the sides of the treads, where the stairs are strongest. Remember that you are basically going down a chimney, so clear the stairs as quickly and as safely as possible.
Once in the basement, get as low as you can, and move to the side of the door. Conditions should be better there. The basement hatchway door simulator is one part of a much bigger picture, but is a great place to start a series of drills covering several topics on basement fires. Your members will perform safely, efficiently, and effectively at fires only if you train them to do so.
Authors’ note: Special thanks to Tony Capuano, Thomas Ginty, and Brian Moran, mechanics who fabricated the basement hatchway door simulator at the New Haven (CT) Fire Department shop, and to Mike Christoforo, Matt Marcarelli, and Abraham Colon for technical advice on the simulator.
HOWARD BLYTHE is a firefighter with the Fire Department of New York (FDNY), assigned to Ladder 27 in the Bronx, and an instructor for the Middlesex County (CT) Fire School. He has attended numerous classes at the National Fire Academy in Emmitsburg, Maryland, on topics ranging from leadership to tactics.
FRANK RICCI is a firefighter with the New Haven (CT) Fire Department and an adjunct instructor with the New Haven, Top Rung, and Middlesex County (CT) fire schools. He is director of fire services for the Connecticut Council on Occupational Safety and Health (ConnectiCOSH) and has consulted for DuPont and Yale. Ricci lectures nationally on injury rehabilitation and tactics. He developed Smoke Showing, a film on operations, fire safety, and staffing that will be distributed free at the Fire Department Instructors Conference by Williams PPE Dryers.
