By Ryan McKay
The debate for most when making grits (dried hominy ground into a grain, similar but different from polenta/cornmeal, which is ground up dried corn) is whether to use standard grocery store fare quick grits or the traditional stone ground grits. I usually use the stone ground variety, as it offers a more risotto-style product and Top Chef alum Hugh Acheson swears by it (he famously was quoted as saying, “I pretty much make grits every day, and these grits suck!”). He also advises starting grits in COLD water; slowly bringing to a boil; simmering for 20-30 minutes; and then finishing with a pad of butter, a hint of cream, and some salt).
But after going to four different grocery stores and not finding any, I felt it prudent to use quick grits in this recipe, as it’s more available. But all things being equal, use the stone ground grits when you can with the above-mentioned cooking instructions (I did manage to find some at the local Trader Joe’s and farmer’s market, so seek them out).
See, for those not in the South, the cooking here is not all about fried this and buttered that. In fact, Chef Acheson eloquently described the current state of Southern Cuisine best…
“Southern food is a celebration of the people within the community, using the agrarian bounty that is constantly around them. It pays homage to the past but is a constantly evolving, ebbing with the seasons and flowing with the constant progression of the South. It is a food ways that really has had a much stronger emphasis on vegetables and sides than huge portions of proteins, and one that is healthy if we show off the diversity of our crops and cooking styles.”
Well said.
*A few after fire critique notes: I recommend making shrimp stock with what you have on hand, but feel free to use chicken stock or water in its place. The heat level is tame, so feel free to up the ante with more jalapeño or an even hotter (habanero) pepper. And lastly but most importantly, this is like playing with FIRE, as this is the penultimate Valentine’s meal and is only recommended for those intending to make a family–it’s that good. You have been warned….
Fuel
Shrimp
Shrimp (1 lb., rinsed)
Bacon (4 slices, julienned)
Mushrooms (10-12 medium white mushrooms)
Green Onion (1 bunch, whites only)
Garlic Cloves (4, peeled and minced)
Shrimp Stock (½ cup)
Half & Half (1-2 Tbs.)
Jalapeño (minced)
Parsley (1 bunch, minced)
Cajun Seasoning (1-2 Tbs.)
Crushed Red Pepper Flakes (pinch)
Lemon (juiced)
Pepper and Salt to taste
Shrimp Stock
Shrimp Shells
Green Onion (greens only)
Salt (1-2 Tbs.)
Water (6 cups, don’t worry, it’s free)
Grits
Grits (1 cup, see note above)
Shrimp Stock (5 cups)
Unsalted Butter (2 Tbs.)
Half & Half (1-2 Tbs.)
Cheddar Cheese (1 cup)
Parmigiano-Reggiano (⅓ cup)
Pepper and Salt to taste
Tools
2 Medium Pots (2- or 4-quart, with lids)
Medium Bowl
Large Sauté Pan
Wooden Spoon
Measuring Vessel (6+ cup vessel)
Fine Mesh Strainer
Slotted Spoon
Whisk
Tactics
For Shrimp Stock
Place the shrimp shells, green onion, and salt in a pot and cover with water (6 cups). Bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer and cook for a minimum of 15 minutes (the longer the better). Strain and reserve.
For the Grits (*see note above)
Place the shrimp stock in the other pot and bring to a boil (add more salt if needed, as it should taste close to the sea). Slowly and with constant swirling, add the grits until fully incorporated. Bring back to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cover. Cook for 10-15 minutes or until your desired texture, ensuring to continually swirl when you can. Reserve.
For the Shrimp
Add the cleaned shrimp (preferably deveined) to a bowl and toss with the Cajun seasoning, crushed red pepper, and salt and toss to coat. Meanwhile, add the bacon to the sauté pan over medium heat. Cook until slightly browned and crisped 8-12 minutes. Using slotted spoon, remove and place over paper towels to drain. Remove all but 1 Tbs. of the bacon fat from the pan.
Sauté the mushrooms until slightly browned and all water is gone, 10-12 minutes. Add the garlic, green onion, and jalapeño and cook an additional 5 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until slightly pink and beginning to form the classic “C” shape. Add the lemon juice, shrimp stock, Half & Half, then bacon, and cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Remove from heat; add parsley and season with pepper and salt to taste.
Ladle the grits into the bottom of a bowl; add the shrimp mixture with a dollop of the shrimp sauce, top with fresh parsley, and season with pepper and salt to taste. Indulge!
Ryan McKay is a 12-year fire service veteran and a firehouse cook from Atlanta, Georgia. His goal is to bring the fast-paced lifestyle of the fire service with the slow-paced art of cultivating family and crew through the tool that is food. He has made an appearance on NBC’s primetime show “Food Fighters,” is a co-founder of the Metro Atlanta EMS Conference, and works intimately with the SafePath Child Advocacy Center.
