BY JOHN W. SHAHAN
In forcible entry/egress, we encounter many types of homemade security devices. While responding to an automatic alarm at a local gun retail store in our first-in area, we encountered a homemade steel security door. The construction of the door, how it is locked, and your options for forcing such a door in an emergency situation are discussed and illustrated below.
 (1) Photos by author. |
Photo 1: The door is shown in its entirety. The doorframe is constructed of two-inch-square tubes; the inner framework is constructed of half-inch-square tubes with expanded metal welded over them. The padlock covers are constructed of 1⁄4-inch plate with a center key drilled through. The hasp is 1⁄2-inch plate.
 (2) |
Photo 2: Take a closer look at the padlock and the covers. The covers are constructed of 1⁄4-inch plate with a 1⁄2-inch plate inside that is not visible. A small hole is drilled in the center so the building occupant can access the locks with the key.
 (3) |
Photo 3: The padlock, commonly referred to as an “earring padlock,” is circular with a half-moon rotating bar designed to be bolt cutterproof. There is little room for cutting; the entire bar would have to be removed.
 (4) |
Photo 4: Pieces of plate are welded on the sides of the door to prevent using a saw to cut through the hasp between the door and the jamb face.
 (5) |
Photos 5, 6: Top (5) and bottom (6) hinges are constructed of 3⁄8-inch plate. Hinge plates are not visible, and they are in close proximity to the building and the ground.
 (6) |
FORCIBLE ENTRY OPTIONS
In forcible entry, there are a hundred ways to accomplish your objective. The key components in forcible entry are sizing up your opponent, making a decision on the tactic to be used, the speed with which you accomplish that objective, and proficiency with your tools and equipment. Don’t get tunnel vision. If your tactic doesn’t work, find a new one. Always start with a new blade when using a circular or rotary saw. Following are four possible cutting options.
 (7) |
Photo 7: Cut the locks with a rotary saw. Keep in mind photos 2-4, which show there is a lot of heavy metal to cut through and there is a small margin of error because of the type of padlock. You would have to cut horizontally across the top of the lock. Note that the padlocks are encased in a lock guard made of 1⁄4-inch plate. This makes it incredibly difficult to see the lock, making it necessary that you make an educated guess as to where you should make the cut. This approach may not be your best option.
 (8) |
Photo 8: Cutting the hinge is not a good option. It is difficult to get a rotary saw in a good cutting position because of the close proximity to the building and the ground. Also, this option does not address the issue that the locks are still holding the door in place.
 (9) |
Photo 9: Cut out the center of the security door with a rotary saw. If the interior door swings outward, cut out the bottom piece of tube from the security doorframe so that the interior door can swing open. This is a time-consuming effort.
 (10) |
Photo 10: Cut around the padlocks. This is by far the best option. Cut above and below the locks through the two-inch-square tube frame out to the first piece of 1⁄2-inch tube. Then run the saw down the length of the door between the two previous cuts, making sure to intersect your cuts. This method gives you maximum access to the interior door. Make sure to chock the security door open so it does not accidentally swing closed. By cutting through the two-inch-square tube frame first, you are using the rotary saw blade when it is new, which will give you maximum cut depth.
In an emergency, it is important that you open all of these doors not only for access but also for personnel egress.
JOHN W. SHAHAN is a career firefighter with the Yakima (WA) Fire Department, where he has served for six years and is assigned to Station 91, Truck 91, and Rescue 91. He originally was a volunteer with Benton County Fire District 2.
